We are again woken up by the rain at 5am and decide to leave. We find ourselves in this peculiar atmosphere where the last revellers are going home and meet people going to work (we are in Biarritz on the last Friday of the French summer break).
We stop in a bakery that reminds us of similar places in Geneva, where party people going home meet when clubs close. Under a thin but constant rain, we ride to St-Jean-de-Luz (which is not far from Biarritz) to wait for a better weather.
When we get back on the road, we cross Hendaye, the last French town before entering Spain. The arrival there is a little bit disappointing because we were expecting a nice "Bienvenido en España", but couldn't find any sign. In Irun, I feel all of a sudden very tired, probably due to the change of the local language. But thanks to our official sugar provider, a soda brand based on cola :-), I am able to get myself ready for the climb of the Jaizkibel. What we first thought to be a mere formality turned out to be a tough climb. However, our efforts are rewarded by a breathtaking view on the Basque coastline.
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| The altitude of the pass is not impressive, but I can assure you that arriving there is worth a picture! |
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| Basque weather and sceneries |
After a nice ride downhill, we end up in an industrial area. A little bit lost, we ask a group of people how to get to San Sebastian. We either have to take a boat (but we don't know the time-table) or do a 5 km detour. We choose the second option.
The end of this stage is epic: dead tired, we struggle under the rain not to end on a highway to get to San Sebastian. At a roundabout, we ask a group of policemen (probably not the best ones) for our way. They show us one direction, discuss a little bit between them, show us an other one. Once we're on the second direction, they call us and suggest us a third one. After one mind-breaking hour, we finally find the correct way.
Once in San Sebastian (Donostia for the Basques), we need to find a hostel. We finally find one cheap apartment, big enough to store our bikes, located in the center. The atmosphere in the streets is very festive, similar to the one in Barcelona. After a couple of pintxos (Basque tapas/appetizers) and beers in the old town, we enjoy a good night's sleep.
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| San Sebastian / Donostia beach |
On the next morning, we ride through Igueldo, where roads get very hilly but with astonishing sceneries.
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| The astonishing coastal road between Donostia and Lekeitio |
As I am riding downhill, I feel that one wheel is not reacting and stop as soon as I can. I just had the first puncture of the tour. The repair is cumbersome : all the panniers have to be removed and the toolbox is at the bottom of one bag. I stop a jeep and ask the driver to inform Akira, so that he doesn't get worried.
"Puede usted decir a mi amigo con la camisa naranja que... (I point my bike which lies upside down)"
"Tienes un pinchazo?"
"Si, por favor. Muchas gratias".
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| The evidence |
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| Repairs (fortunately, in the shade) |
The driver carries the news to Akira who was beginning to get worried because the descent was steep and a little bit dangerous.
We then ride quite intensively because Mario, a friend who works as a nurse, is waiting for us at Lekeitio, a small town on the coast. The road going there is superb and we arrive at dusk.
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| The Basque nurse working at 11pm |
After a short night, he shows us Lekeitio and teach us to live, eat and think like Basques.
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| "We live the Basque style!". We are warned. |
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| Enjoying our first swim in the ocean |
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| Chancel of the church in Lekeitio. A little bit excessive but very impressive! |
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| "ETA prisonners, back to the Basque country!". Currently, ETA prisonners are sent to prisons outside the Basque coutry, in Spain. Many people around here consider that this is unfair for their family. Thus those flags pretty much everywhere on the streets. |
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| You can walk on water in Lekeitio! |
Small conversation guide in Basque (the "x" is pronounced as "ch")
| Hi | Keixo |
| Thank you | Eskerik asko |
| Excuse me | Barkatu |
| Hello | Ekunon |
| Have a safe trip | Ondo ibili |
| Thank you very much | same as Thank you |
| My name is Sebastien | Sébastien naiz |
| Cheers | tupa |
| You are cute | Polita zara (not yet tested until today) |
| We are friends | Gu lagunak gara (might be useful to get ourselves out of a tricky situation) |
We eat pintxos, swim (Basque nurses, at least the one we know, use to swim at the end of their night shif), the beach is beautiful with a small island that can be only reached at low tide.
We place our luggages in Mario's car who offers us to bring them to Bilbao, after his second night shift. However, his schedule changes and he is free for the whole day. Consequently, Mario's parents invite us for dinner in Bilbao. We have to hurry because it's 6pm, we're in Lekeitio and still have 43 km to ride.
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| La familia Del Rio (Mario, Allyn, Marta, Carlos, Angela, Mateo) con nosotros |
The evening at the Del Rio's family house is really pleasant. They all are lovely, the food and the wine are delicious. We discover the real melon, the one that Spanish people keep for themselves because it's too good to be exported. A huge thanks to the whole family for these memorable moments.
We sleep at Mario and Allyn's place, in the downtown (Casco viejo). On the next morning, Mario takes us for a tour of Bilbao. We cross the city by following the river, rest at a table outside a café (in the Basque country, it is common to order "katxi", a pitcher of beer in a big coke-like cup, poured in smaller glasses).
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| Pepper spray on the "Pupi" (Guggenheim museum) |
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| Café at Plaza Nueva, Bilbao |
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| Akira finds a Basque bike lock |
We walk back with Mario to his place because he has to work in the evening. We won't see him again because he has a night shift in an other town. A huge thanks to him for showing us his region from an insider's point of view, even with his very busy professionnal schedule. Dear friend, see you very soon in Switzerland, in Rennes, Sheffield or anywhere else!
In the evening, we meet Raquel, a friend that I met in London, at the Guggenheim Museum. We spend the evening drinking beers and eating with her sister. Again, lot of fun and laughters. Between two delicious pintxos, I try a "calimocho" for the first time: a mix of red wine and coke, highly appreciated by young Spanish people (I'm a little bit old, but I have to compensate, right?). Until now, I wouldn't have dared to drink it, but I have to admit that it's not bad. Thanks to Raquel and Silvia for this nice evening!
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| Raquel y dos cyclistas sympaticos |
On the next day, we're already on the road again. Until now, this crossing of the Basque country is spectacular and we are looking forward to what comes next.
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